Sunday, July 28, 2013

Singing, good-bye parties, footballs and momo making! The second last day...

It's over. I can't believe that it is all over. Sorry for the slight drama, but I just can't believe that this adventure has come to an end. It took me a few days to process it all... it's like all the exhaustion I should've felt the last two months is coming out all at once now that I'm finally allowing it to.

Rigzin serenading me...
The start of the end was the 25th of July. The day of the leaving party. I had planned that that day instead of classes we would have a 'party' instead because the next day at noon I would be leaving the monastery for good. Candies had been bought, games had been prepared and one of the older monks lent me his music speakers. I waited in the class and slowly the excited kids of class 1 started pouring in. We sat in a big circle and I read them the letter that I had written for them; laughs ensued at our inside jokes (oh snap, yes, we actually have inside jokes!!! I only realized this as I was writing the letters! Too good). I opened the bag of candies and packets of biscuits for them and as we were munching the food down three of my students declared that they wanted to sing songs for me. The first started, Rigzin, the boy with slight mental problems, he sang 'waving flag' (the world cup song) to me because we had had a conversation about that a week earlier. He sang so quietly and shyly in front of us all, but it was just such a lovely gesture, I'm so proud of him, these kids... Then a pair of boys, Yonten and Kedup, sang my favorite Hindi song to me. With the help of the monks (I kept on humming it in class) I discovered the name of the song; Tumhiho. How is this my favorite song? It is played absolutely everywhere. I walk in the village and it's playing out of the window of someone's house, I'm at a shop and it's playing on the radio, I'm sitting next to a group of kids and it's playing on their phone, I'm on the bus and it's playing on the cracking speakers. And because of this all now I will associate this song with Nepal for the rest of my life. I love that music can have that power. I mean, I listen to the song 'White Flag' by Dido and I'm 8, in the car with my Korean friend on the way to a theme park in Poland. I hear the song 'Left Outside Alone' by Anastacia and I'm 11 on holiday in England. I hear any song by Akon and I'm back to my 13 year old tween self at his concert in Dubai. And now this song will be added to the list. Yes, sometime in the future when I'm old and grey in my rocking chair I'll hear this cheesy Hindi song and for a moment I'll be 18 again at the monastery in Sundarijaal...


Showing off their party
tricks...

Party ticks 2.0

Cute monk selfie
After the adorable performances we finished the snacks and started playing music. The young monks went crazy. Dancing, singing and semi-kungfu fighting... They may wear the orange robes they're still just as rowdy and rough as any boys their age!!!! It was all fun and games but after a while I really had to calm them down (they may have had a slight sugar rush from all the candy, oops) and change the pace; we started playing games. They attempted to teach me some Nepali game but I had no clue what was going on; it was a blast none the less. And before I knew it the hour was over and it was time for them to leave. As they started leaving the class for the last time a few students came and gave me drawings and letters as goodbye gifts... I almost cried.


Then the older guys from class two came in. We all sat in a circle again and I read them their letter, again filled with inside jokes... They applauded me at the end, looking half-amused, half-sad. Then they declared that they also wanted to sing for me! And what song did they sing? You guessed it. Tumhiho. Double performance, was it my birthday??? It was such a lovely moment. After that I taught them one of my favorite games, "ninja", and they absolutely loved it. I failed miserably because I was way too busy talking and laughing to focus, but the monks totally rocked at the game! After a couple of games we decided to play something else; they took a piece of paper and ripped it into 8 pieces, wrote something on each piece and got a bottle. It was spin the bottle... monk style. Yep. Side note: no kissing involved. Basically when the bottle points to you you have to pick one of the pieces of paper which all have embarrassing tasks on them; sing, dance, say I love you, be a slave, do push-ups ect. It was hilarious. And the dancing, oh the dancing... But soon the end of that class came too. Everyone was saying their thanks and as they left one of the boys stayed behind and handed me a gift. A beautiful, heartfelt, hand-written letter and a bracelet. You guessed it... I could've cried again. 

11:00 am and time for the last class. At this point I was feeling a bit exhausted but after we opened yet another pack of the super sweet candies the sugar pushed me along. We did the circle thing where I read them the letter that I wrote to their class, they loved it. We played "ninja" as well, danced to music and then they also attempted to teach me some Nepali game... unsuccessfully. We talked some more and then at 11:40 am I ended my last class for the last time. It was time for me to bring the football downstairs for them... I had been telling them that I had a surprise but they had no clue what it would be. So at 12, the time we had planned that I would give the gift, they all went to the front of the Pooja room. I wrapped the ball in my mostquito net and a bag so that it would not be 100% obvious that it was a ball and walked down to the meeting spot. The monks excitedly gathered around... then the moment came... I revealed the gift; a brand new, bright orange, real puma football; they went absolutely crazy!!!!! Cheering, laughing, hugging me (woah!) and cheering again. Oh my, it was one of the best moments of my life. Just the fact that something as simple as a football can bring that much joy to them changed a little something inside me...



I had my final Dal Bhat lunch accompanied by a huge bag of aloo (spiced potatoes) which I shared with all the monks. I had bought it the day before when I went to get chowmein (a noodle dish) for the final time. I have had chowmein so many times in Nepal; at a restaurant in Kathmandu, at both of the hotels I've stayed at in Thamel, at a restaurant in Boudha... but the best chowmein I've had is sold at a super, super sketchy shop in Sundarijaal. So sketchy that the shop doesn't even have a name... AND it's only 25 rupees (compared to the 180 rupees at all the restaurants!!!) HELLO! I'll miss it way too much to be acceptable. I'll miss all the Nepali and Indian food actually. Oh dear god..... I am so glad for the cooking lessons Isuda gave!!! AND one of my roommates at NYUAD is Indian!!!! All will be fine. But yes, the food here will be one of the things I'll miss the most. The whole Nepali culture revolves around food. You know how in the west when you're standing around and you want to strike up a conversation or when there's an awkward silence... you usually talk about the weather. Here? Well here we talk about food. "Hey" "hi, nice to see you, how are you?" "good, good" *awkward silence* "......so what did you have for lunch?". Yep. Or when you go to their house and immediately they offer you food, and it's not just a biscuit or something, I mean real home cooked, good food that they are waiting to eat for lunch... ahh... No wonder I gained so much weight here. Yeah, did you know that here in Nepal it is seen as a good thing to have some meat on your bones? It's actually a compliment to be called fat. And oh my God it has been happening way too often at the monastery. A few days ago in class Kalsang goes "Zizi, I have a good news for you, you are fat now".......... ok. And when I was spinning the prayer wheel for the first time "Zizi, don't do too much exercise, you will become thin again!" Oh if only the west was like this... it would save a whole bunch of teenage girls from a whole bunch of tears.


The day before I had organized one final surprise. After advice from my neighbour Tenzin (I mean, who else gives me advice... seriously, what will I do without him?!) during my last Thukpa dinner. He said I could give a bit of money so that the cook could make a very, very nice dinner on my final night, that way I could give something to everyone, and nothing makes any of them happier than food (...unless it's a brand new football). I thought about it for 3.2 seconds and then agreed. We called over one of the older monks and discussed the money. It started with 2000 rupees... that would get us buffalo momos. Nope, gurl I'm too vegan for that. Then to 4000 rupees, which would get us cheese momos. Still a no. It's not the season for vegetables, so getting veg momos would be 6000 rupees. After another 3.2 seconds I ran to my room and got the money. So much for living cheaply these last few days... the truth is that after the money stealing my parents gave me the blessing to use the emergency debit card that they had left with me (and which I had forgotten about), so I was a rich bitch again (not really). So yes, I gave the money to the cook.


 By the next day (the 25th) at 4:00 pm it all started. I went down to the kitchen where 10 select monks were working with the cook. Chopping, steaming, boiling, mashing... momos! I helped out for the next 3 hours. I LEARNT HOW TO MAKE MOMOS. Okay, it started off terribly with the monks making fun of my efforts (we are on that level of friendship (oh snap), don't worry, it wasn't mean) but by the 57th one (and 1.5 hours later) I WAS A PRO. I can now make a momo in less than 30 seconds... I have a video.



Dinner time came around and the surprise on the faces of all the monks was worth all the money I had put in and more. The evening was followed by thousands of sincere "thank you"s for my efforts of the entire day; the parties, the ball, the momos, I totally spoilt them. It was worth all the money. They gave me so many momos that by the time I couldn't possibly fit another one in my stomach the plate still looked full. Such a memorable last supper. Oh the end was becoming so real... the next morning would be the last time I heard the Pooja, the last time I had rotis, the last time I'd wake up in Sundarijaal for a long while...

Charlotte x

Wednesday, July 24, 2013

"Zizi is Nepali"

Lunch, lunch, lunch
Remember how last time I left off with how I was at Ramsaran-ji’s house? Well a bunch of stuff that I definitely did not see coming happened from there on. After they woke up from their nap we ate mangos. This was followed by Gaiatri-ji showing me her collection of jewelry. And slowly but surely they started transforming me into a Nepali woman. It started of very casually, “take take” as they gave me a bunch of bangles (of course with my man hand wrists I broke two of them during the process of putting them on…). She went back to her jewelry stash and got me a really fancy big bangle with ‘diamonds’ on it for my other wrist. We had some more mango and then she went over to her hair accessories. She brought out a hair clip and ordered me to sit in front of her so she could do my hair. With a new hairdo and countless dhanyabaad’s (thank you’s) from me we carried on semi-talking.

Then Ramsaran-ji said something to her which I later found out meant something along the lines of “you forgot to give her a necklace” because before I knew it I was wearing one. They looked proudly at me and then had a moment of realization; I was missing a bindi. Gaiatri-ji went over to her enormous bindi stash, selected one of her finest and placed it on my forehead. “Rambro chaaaaa” followed from both of their mouth (Nepali for ‘good’) whilst their fingers wagged from side to side, which I first was confused about because thought it meant no, but now I realized that its different from the west and means ‘very good’.

Ramsaran brought me some tea, which I knew would be my last tea from their shop, so I savoured every last drop (and got a cute picture with it). Then it was time for Ramsaran to open his shop and Gaiatri-ji and I were left alone. I did her hair for a bit, she put bright red lipstick on me, painted my nails (leaving out the nails on the right hand because that hand is for eating) and then her face had the look of someone who had just come up with a genius evil plan. I didn’t know what was going on but within minutes I was fully aware of her plans; she brought out a traditional Nepali sari for me to wear. Closing the windows and undressing in front of her (this is Nepal) showing off my full white belly whilst she joked “I black tea, you milk tea”… too good.

I was wearing the skirt and the revealing top, hoping that there was another layer to come when yes she brought out a massively long, beaded piece of fabric. She wrapped it around me, folding, tucking and turning me around until finally it was on, another “rambro cha” and finger wag followed. She called out “RAMSARAN” but he was busy in the shop so she escorted me out of the house/room. I went into the shop and Ramsaran-ji’s face was a look of shock and awe (I think) and there were more “rambro cha”’s, followed by a cute photo shoot in front of the tea shop.


From the moment she put the bangles on my arm to when she showed me off to Ramsaran-ji, Gaiatri-ji had been saying “ama, chori” over and over… I now found out that it means “mother, daughter” in Nepali, so cute my heart could explode. I dressed back into my own clothes and was forced to stay back in the tea shop for another hour because the monsoon rains had started for the day. After the rain finally stopped I handed over my letter (their son will translate it for them when he’s visiting) and we had a long goodbye hug. I left the tea shop with Gaiatri-ji watching and waving. The first goodbye was officially over.


As I was walking through the village with my new jewelry, nail polish and bindi I was stopped multiple times by village women asking me “Marriage? Marriage?” It turns out that the necklace, bindi and bangles she gave me are ones worn only by married women, which is logical because she gave me her own. After a few more “marriage?” questions I arrived back to the monastery where I was greeted with excited screams “Zizi is Nepali!!!”

Charlotte x

Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Two days to go

I have two days left at the monastery. By this time on Friday I will be saying my final goodbyes. 

The last couple of days have really been very peaceful. The monks all know that I am leaving soon and they are all being really attentive, asking me lots of questions about what I will do after I leave, whether I’m excited to see my family again, how my packing is going and whether I will come and visit the monastery again.

Tenzin, one of my students
who protested the first class
saying "I no good draw"... Now
2 months later he brings me this.
This possibly makes me more
proud than any English
class did...
Since we finished all the projects (we finally finished the biographies!!!) the lessons haven’t really been lessons but just catching up with each other, drawing, playing bananagrams and talking about the goodbye party (which is tomorrow!). Adorable things continue to happen, from monks giving me drawings as gifts to the youngest monk coming up to me at the end of yesterday’s class and whispering in my ear “thank you, I love you” I could’ve cried, maybe I did a little once they all left……

Getting my nails didddd
I have been spending most of my time writing letters for all of the monks and yogis like a mad woman. I brought Burj Khalifa postcards with me to Nepal (gosh I’m so forward thinking) because I knew that I wanted to give the people something when I left. But the cards are way too small and the writing won’t fit on it so I’m giving each of them a hand written letter, the card separately, a mango and a pomegranate. I’ve also written a really, ridiculously long letter for the next English teacher. VIN doesn’t have anyone lined up yet (because of the low numbers of volunteers signing up due to the website problems) for the monastery so I have no clue who it will be but I decided to write a letter anyway because when I got here the previous teacher had left me nothing and as a result there was little continuity in the lessons. I also wrote a couple of tips, but not too many because figuring it all out by myself was one of the things which taught me the most and I want to give that opportunity to the next person too… Oh when I think back to my first bus ride alone in the cramped microbus…… Walking up to the village, figuring out where the good food was (I hope the next teacher finds Ramsaran-ji’s place…) Going through this wild Tulku Jigme/Buddhism experience… oh I wish I could be a fly and watch what adventures the next English teacher goes on here at Nyingmapa Wishfulfilling Monastery…

Intense banagrams game


The losers eating their bricks out
of frustration
Right so I had planned to go to Ramaran-ji’s tea shop to do a simple blog post upload, have my last Kazaa (a nepali snack, try it!!!) and then say my final goodbyes to them. I turn up at the shop and all the doors are locked. Right. So I decided to camp outside the shop until 12 figuring that they were probably taking an afternoon nap in their house. It’s another super hot day today so I was sweatin’ it out with a random dog keeping me company when I had a stroke of genius; I had Ramsaran-ji’s number!!! I called him, which posed a slight problem, I don’t speak Nepali and he doesn’t speak English, but somehow he understood what I meant because two seconds later he was standing right next to me! Turns out their house is a tiny little room attached to the teashop, they invited me inside. That’s where I am right now, I just finished eating lunch with them and they instructed me to go on my laptop so they could sleep a little longer. I love it when things like this happen. So yes. I’m here in their room/house, I’ll spend a little more time here, drink some juice, have the Kazaa and then hand him and his wife the goodbye letter (let’s hope that we can find someone to translate it for them…) and that will mark the start of all the goodbyes.

Charlotte x

My favorite day

Yep, Saturday was by far my favorite day in Nepal so far. It all started early in the morning at 6:30 am, the other Charlotte had stayed the night at the monastery still busy with her interviews. We made our way down to the dining hall, got our roti’s and went to sit outside by the prayer wheel where we’d promised the two Sonam’s the day before to meet up. Whilst we were eating our roti’s (with a choice of my peanut butter or the monks’ spicy chilli sauce as condiment) a group of younger monks came to find me. “Zizi, picnic today?” UM, YES PLEASE. We had talked about this in class for a bit and decided that if it was good weather Saturday that we would go. The weather was amazing. We all agreed to meet at the prayer wheel in an hour.

An hour later we were all ready to go. I had heard before that they always have picnics at a park so I was all mentally prepared for a simple walk on the road to a grassy field. I WAS WRONG. We ended up hiking up a mountain in the middle of the jungle. It turns out that the monks use this short cut so that they don’t have to pay the entry fee (naughty). The hike was super tough but super beautiful, the sound of waterfalls as a background song to the chirping of birds. However, the mountain was crazy steep and the ground was super slippery; there Charlotte and I were on our flipflops (which we had worn because we were expecting a simple park picnic….) with the young monks, who were carrying pots and pans and wood on their backs and heads, meters ahead of us.

Then horror struck, we discovered there were leeches (I finally got my first leech! Why am I excited about this?) And about 2.3 seconds after that we discovered that Charlotte is deathly afraid of leeches. She had a panic attack right in the middle of the jungle. There Aryan and I were desperately trying to calm her down, trying to find a plastic bag for her to breathe in, trying to find something for her to eat, but there was no one and nothing around us except the green and… more leeches. Eventually Aryan and I managed to calm her down (the group of 7 younger monks were already far and distantly ahead of us) and within a five minute walk we made it to a road. We carried on along the roads from there on forth.


Chopping veggies like the
mom I am...
Leaves as oven mitts! Yes.
The total trek took a good 2 hours and then we arrived at the destination. It was amazing; a quiet, green open space right next to a clean, fresh river… this was not the kind of park I had in mind. All my expectations were blown out of the water (wait, pun intended? What am I doing with my life). I think the super tough trek up the steep mountain to the picnic spot actually made us that much more grateful for the amazing place we had ended up in. And because Aryan, Charlotte and I had arrived later we could hear all the monks playing in the river already, I was beyond excited. The two older guys (Aryan and Jimpa) started making a fire whilst the rest of the young monks played in the water with Charlotte and I watching.




That’s how we spent our day, accompanied by eating mangos, pomegranates and ramen noodles; which were impressively good considering it was cooked by one of my young students. Because of the walk Charlotte and I were all gross and sweaty and were dying for a swim, but we hadn’t brought anything to swim in (expecting a western style picnic in a flat, grassy park) so we had to do with just paddling our feet in the freezing water. Then, as if it was a gift from the river Gods, we found four one-use packets of shampoo lying on a rock!!! What!!! We decided it was a divine sign that we should just go in the damn river and wash our hair. It. Was. Amazing. I never want to use a bathroom again… okay that may be an exaggeration. Either way it was one of the best experiences of my life.


Look at this view!!!
Now that the no-swimming-for-us rule had been broken and we let go, we played and played and played with the monks for the next half an hour before our feet got so cold that they could’ve fallen off. We went back to the grass spot and quickly dried up thanks to the burning hot afternoon sun. After some more talking, card games and a butterfly landing on my face (!!!) we decided it was time to go back. The younger monks all left on the forest short cut whilst Aryan, Charlotte and I took the civilized path down the sand roads. We arrived back at the monastery an hour after the rest of the younger monks, exhausted and high on life because of the awesome experience we’d just had. Ahhh, I really can’t put how amazing that morning/afternoon was into words, this will have to do.


So after a quick breathing break Charlotte was ready to go off to Boudha where she was planning to spend the next few days. After a quick debate in my head I decided to go with her, Boudha really is one of my favorite places here. Of course we went to the Spanish restaurant again, it helps that the owners are so awesome… and I had churros for the first time and died a brief death of joy. Then the rain started. First slowly and then all at once, and didn’t end for an entire hour. We were stuck at the restaurant drinking fruity cocktails… poor us. Then we looked outside. BOUDHA WAS FLOODED. There was half a meter of water around the stupa! Bikes were half drowned and people were up to their knees in water! It was almost 6:00 pm, time for me to take the bus home, but then I looked outside again and realized that the sandy roads of Sundarijal were probably a disaster by now. After a quick call with my monastery supervisor I decided to stay at a guesthouse in Boudha, where I slept like a baby on the softest mattress I’d laid on in weeks. The perfect end to a perfect day.

Now I’m back at the monastery again, it’s officially my last couple of days here, I’m going to miss it so much but at the same time I’m feeling strangely okay with leaving. I thought that I would be a wreck and half-devastated but I’ve come to accept that this too has to end… plus, having the thought of seeing my baby Maks (he’s a dog, not an actual baby, don’t worry) and my family in a week is definitely making it easier too!


Charlotte x