Chitwan!!!

Picnic break whilst fixing the
water...

Uh oh, I haven't written a blog post in a week! Be prepared for a super long week update... here goes!
The past week consisted of classes, classes and classes. The real teaching had begun. I really love how there's starting to be a set rhythm to the classes and that the students understand it. Also, for the last four weeks, whenever someone was done with their work before everyone else I would tell them to draw – and now they all just do it automatically; even the ones that said in the beginning that they don't like drawing!!! I'm really forming a bond with all of the students, which I'm so so so happy with. The water at the monastery still isn't working properly so a group of monks have spent the last 5 days trying to fix it. I'd come and bring them snacks and just hang out with them in the afternoons whilst they were working. We are really like friends, we'll go to the tea shop (if they get permission to leave the monastery) and just talk about their lives, and even their girl problems!!!!! I can't say more about that though, I've taken an oath to never tell anyone. One afternoon we were having tea and one of them said word for word (I wrote it down because I knew I would forget if I didn't, of course) "sometimes I feel like you are not a girl, you are like a monk, you are our friend"... I swear in that moment I could've shed a tear...

Some of the monks swimming in the river
right next to the monastery!

The monsoon season is seriously on its way, in the last week I've seen more rain than in my 8 years in the UAE combined. The river next to the monastery is filling up with water which means all the younger monks go swimming every afternoon "Zizi, come swim! Zizi, come swim!" I hear every day... And because of the rain there are thousands of mosquitoes everywhere. My legs are a beautiful white and red polka dot pattern and my room always has the background hum of insect wings. One night it was so bad that I got up in a rage and went on a mosquito killing spree... I never kill insects and of course after I'd killed at least eight of them I felt so so so guilty, oh my. I even feel bad about killing a freaking mosquito?!? What is wrong with me?!? But I mean these bugs are only trying to live their life, they never did anything wrong. I will ask Ngodup, the monk who always fixes everything, to put a nail in the ceiling so I can start using my mosquito net.

Other than that I've been busy going to the morning classes with the top Lama, Tulku Jigme. I'm still feeling like my connection to Buddhism is strong but some of the teachings are really tough to grasp. Right now we are talking about the six Barthos (intermediate stages) and death. Half the time I'm just spending trying not to be so damn skeptical. But then again, Buddha himself said that you shouldn't just take his word in blind faith; he always encouraged skepticism and analysis of his teachings; which I love him even more for. Anyway, I explained to Tulku Jigme that I'm finding it difficult to accept some of the things as truth and then he explained to me that that is normal. He then went on to say that he is actually teaching me real Dharma, not just a simple introduction for beginners who are interested but actual teachings that the monks receive. I don't know why he's chosen to do that but he said that I am very fortunate...

Yes, I've been thinking about taking refuge (becoming a Buddhist) for a while now, my yogi neighbor, Tenzin, and I have been talking about it a bunch and my younger students are always telling me to get a Tibetan name (which is what you get from your teacher when you become a Buddhist). I feel like this is a really private topic and need some time to think about it all, but I am actually, seriously considering it... especially when last lesson with Tulku Jigme he was reading a section of a book about not taking your teacher and the Dharma (the teachings) for granted; that there are few people who actually get to learn it and that we shouldn't feel as if it is a normal, everyday thing...

One of my favorite pictures that I've taken so far, this
is the lady I buy my fruits from and her son Atsh.

So that has been the happenings of the beginning of the week, then on Thursday afternoon I set off on the journey to Chitwan. Chitwan is an area of Nepal known for its National Park which has wild elephants, rhinos, deer, tigers, boars, monkeys, peacocks ect. VIN has connections with one of the organizations there and plans trips for their volunteers to spend a weekend there; of course I signed up. I was supposed to go 2 weeks earlier with my original group of volunteers but I got the throat infection so I was going with the new group.

Okay, so, it was Thursday afternoon, I had just finished teaching and it was time to go to Kathmandu because the next morning we'd have to get to the Chitwan bus at 6:00 am. Got to Thamel and booked a hotel room, attempted to do some skyping but failed, then met up with Pat and went to get some drinks, Laura (one of the newer volunteers) came and joined us and we had a really chill night. We all woke up super early the next morning to catch the bus. The group gathered outside, Barry, Ming, Ashley, Elisa, Andrew, Laura and I, and guided by Pat (who is a volunteer coordinator) we headed towards the bus. Turns out we were just a little bit late and all eyes were on us as we awkwardly entered the big bus. I got the window seat and sat next to Andrew. Andrew and I had a really good conversation about agriculture, university and books for the first hour but after that the air in the bus started heating up and we were all put to sleep by the warmth. I was praising baby Jesus that I had the window seat because the breeze made the heat more bearable. We had a short bathroom stop, and I used a squat toilet for the first time... I had managed to avoid them for a whole month but I guess the time had come; it wasn't even bad! It was just like camping... Then we went back to the bus and drove for another 2 hours.

Paulinnnnn!!!! akjdfhaskdjh

Everyone was so drowsy once we arrived at the restaurant where we were to have lunch. I had to do some serious fast walking around the place (looking like a crazy tourist) to wake myself up, then I went inside the restaurant. I got a plate full of fried rice, chowmein and pokoda and asked myself whether I had gone to heaven, just as I was happily walking towards a seat I spotted a flash of a red shirt and a familiar looking face. I looked again; did I just see what I thought I saw? I gazed intensely into the distance (I must've looked possessed) and then realized that my eyes had not deceived me, RIGHT THERE IN THE CORNER OF THE RESTAURANT WAS POPO... Paulin, one of my really good friends from my old high school in Abu Dhabi!!! I dramatically ran towards him shouting his name and saw the 5.3 seconds of shock when he saw my face... we had a dramatic embrace and I was jittery with excitement and disbelief for the rest of lunch. I had known that he was going to be going to Nepal, we had even planned for him to come to the monastery but I had never thought that I would see him here at a random road side restaurant on the road to Chitwan... Out of all the times we could've decided to leave Kathmandu we chose today, out of all the buses we could've taken we chose the ones that ended up right next to each other and out of all the restaurants we could've gone to we went to this one... unbelievable!!! We spent the next half an hour talking away with every 5 minutes being interrupted by me semi-shouting "I can't believe it!" I talked to his family for a bit, gave them my phone number and the directions to the monastery, they'll probably visit once they are back from their trip. Then it was time to get back on the bus, Paulin and I said our goodbyes, and still feeling slightly freaked out by the coincidence I fell asleep on the bus again.

The trip was a total of 6 hours and my butt was numb and my legs were frozen by the time we reached the destination. We got off the bus and were met by a representative of the Jungle Safari Resort. We went onto their truck and were brought to the resort. It was dead quiet when we arrived, turns out we were the only people staying in the entire hotel because it’s the monsoon season and there aren’t many tourists. I understood why, it was so so so hot, and ridiculously humid, Abu Dhabi style… thank God that the rooms had AC (although there were numerous power cuts over the two days accompanied by Laura and I going “nooooo”, darth vader style, each time). We immediately had lunch including a long explanation of what vegan means to the staff… still got milk tea the next morning. After the food we were given the schedule and I was so happy with the 2 hour break we had, I could take a nap.

After the nap we all met up outside ready to go on the ox cart ride around the Tharu village. The Tharu’s are the native people of that area of Chitwan. It’s so amazing because the oxen know exactly what to do, as soon as the man lifts the piece of wood they move to the cart and put their necks down. I was feeling a little un-vegan for going on the ride, a recurring theme throughout the Chitwan trip (what with the elephants being used for our entertainment and all), but I went anyway. We ended up going to the Tharu museum but it really was way too humid inside for me to register any of the information. I ended up going outside where there was at least a slight breeze and sat down on the grass. Turns out I sat on an ant hill and now my butt is covered by a lovely pattern of tiny red itchy dots… must be karma from my mosquito mass murder… damn

We went on our way back to the hotel with the oxen but then it started raining and we took refuge at a local farm. There I bonded with the dog, freaked out over the cute ducklings and tried the home made rice wine; Raksi. It is definitely nothing like normal wine, it actually tastes more like bad, watered down vodka… interesting. After the rain stopped we made our way back to the hotel and had dinner. It kept on raining and raining and the weather continued to be horridly humid so we all decided we would go to the cultural dance the next day instead of that evening. That night we just hung around the hotel and had drinks there. I was super hungry at one point and went to try to find snacks when I ran into one of the tour guides, Vishnu. We had a short conversation and then he asked me whether I wanted to see some elephants. I agreed, but then when we started walking down to the place in the dark I started worrying whether I’d made a mistake. Then I heard the sounds of the elephants and I knew that I was in good hands. They were amazing, Vishnu let me touch them and feed them treats. One of the elephants can do tricks and put a flower necklace around my neck and even shook my hand… I felt so lucky to get the opportunity; little did I know the next day would consist of that but times 100.

Looking happy, unaware of the horrors that lay ahead...

The next morning we got woken up by the morning call at 5:30 am, half asleep we had breakfast and then by 6:30 am we left to go on a canoe trip. A short walk from the hotel is the river and in the water were the canoes, they are made the traditional way; out of a single tree trunk. We got into the canoe and realized they were super unstable, when anyone just moves a little bit the whole canoe moves. I was terrified. Had several mild panic attacks, especially with the view of the crocodiles chilling out on the river bank 4 meters away… after a ride which felt like a century we got off. It was time for the jungle trek. Normally it’s easy to spot animals there but because it was the monsoon season there were no animals in sight, as a result we were all super excited when we spotted a frog… It started raining like crazy half way through the trek. It was so sudden that getting the raincoat out of my bag was redundant so I just chose to get completely soaked; it was amazing.

Crocodile!!!! + this is where the pictures end!

After the trek we made our way to the elephant breeding center where we saw baby elephants!!! They were so adorable with their uncontrollable trunks that fly all over the place. Some of the mid aged elephants seemed super bored though, chained up to a pole with a 6 meter radius around them to walk to. So I found some fresh bamboo sticks and wrapped them into balls filling them with flowers so I could throw them to the elephants. They were super curious and picked them up immediately with their trunks and started inspecting them. I could’ve stayed there for the rest of the day but the group started leaving so I had to catch up to them.

We then walked over to the river again and I realized that it was time for the elephant bathing. The whole experience was absolutely incredible; I think I had a constant smile on my face… the best was when the elephant took water into their trunks and spray it onto me. At one point the elephant rolled to its side and I fell into the water, it stayed on its side while I massaged it and washed its super tough skin. I had asked Vishnu to be my photographer (with the beast, my polaroid camera) and he ended up using the whole film! That is 10 super expensive pictures of me and an elephant. After a good 30 minutes the elephants got out of the water and brought us back to the river bank. It was then the other volunteers’ turn, whilst they were having the experience Vishnu and I bonded. After 20 minutes of talking he took out his chewing tobacco (literally every Nepali person takes it) and offered me some, and I thought you know what, this is Nepal, I might as well try. I put it in my mouth and spent, what felt like, the next 10 minutes buzzing. Whist still buzzed I decided it would be a good idea to get a cute picture with an elephant. As I was getting on its back it decided to stand up before I was ready, so there I was holding on for dear life laughing away with the rest of the volunteers semi panicked semi amused calling for a camera… I managed to jump down and get back on properly and after the picture was done Vishnu shouted something to the elephant’s owner. The owner got on the elephant and started walking off with me!!! I was so so so confused; there I was half buzzed whilst the elephant was walking off. Turns out Vishnu asked whether I could get dropped off at the hotel by the elephant! I waved the other volunteers goodbye as they exclaimed “What!!! That’s not fair” muhahaha… The elephant ride was amazing for the first 10 minutes but then my butt really started to hurt and the super prickly hairs weren’t helping my comfort level either. But I’d pick the elephant ride back over the car ride any day! I arrived back 10 minutes after the rest and crashed down in the hotel room for a nap… I was exhausted.

After one and a half hours of sleep it was time to go on the elephant safari in the jungle. We got to the place and had to wait till there were elephants available, whilst waiting I bonded with some Indian family that was also waiting; as of now I have an address in India that I can stay at indefinitely. The elephant was ready and we got into the box that is on top of their backs. 5 people, including the ‘driver’ all carried by the elephant! We then started walking into the jungle. We had to be super quiet if we wanted to see some animals so it was really, really peaceful. We saw boars, wild peacocks and deer (!!! I love deer). Then all of a sudden we stumbled upon a massive gathering of elephants carrying other tourists. I thought there was a traffic jam but within 5 minutes found out the reason behind the commotion; in a little pond was a mother rhino bathing with her baby!!! SO so so so incredible, we got a front row seat and watched them for almost half an hour. We were on top of the elephant but literally 4 meters away! The baby was so playful and all throughout I just felt so grateful that I got to see these beautiful, endangered animals from such a short distance; and the baby just made my day.

For the rest of the day I was high on life because of that experience. On the way back to the elephant drop off we found a tiny baby bird lying on the ground; it had fallen out of the nest. And of course I went apeshit. The driver couldn’t get off the elephant though, it would be too dangerous. So I had a dramatic moment as the elephant walked off and I could hear the baby crying, I could’ve cried as well.

We got back to the hotel and had dinner. After dinner we went to see the traditional Tharu dancing. It was incredible. I was expecting some cheesy music played from speakers but they brought out live traditional drums and the women sang, in the chanting style which I love love love. The last dance was one where we could all join in. Some of the dancers left to ask people in the audience to dance but all the people were continuously rejecting them… then all hunger games style “I volunteer” I stood up and walked to the stage. There I was surrounded by all the Tharu men attempting to do the dances, after a couple of minutes other people were encouraged by my faulty dancing and joined in; it was great. The best was when you got the exact rhythm as the other dancers and it just all flowed together, magical. But holy smokes it’s such a work out, we were all sweating by the end of it.

After that we headed back to the hotel and a couple of the volunteers weren’t feeling well so we had another relatively quiet night back in the hotel, no elephant this night. I ended up staying up until 4 am on Skype; probably not such a smart idea but it was worth it. The next morning we got up at 8 am ready for breakfast and the trip back. Whilst the day before the weather had been bearable because of the rain this day it was super hot and humid again… great. We got on the bus and it was already cooking but I thought I would be generous and let Andrew have the window seat this time; terrible idea because I had the worst bus trip ever in my life. It was so so so hot at one point I didn’t even care anymore and let the sweat run down my face, charming. We then got stuck in a traffic jam and it was boiling up because now there wasn’t even the slightest breeze coming in from the window. When there was about 30 minutes remaining I asked Andrew whether we could swap seats and I think he saw the desperation in my eye and, thankfully, agreed. We got back to Thamel and I got a hotel room by myself for the night, I just wanted to sleep, and sleep I did; 12 hours, for the first time in Nepal.

I woke up this morning and was naughty and got street food for breakfast (30 rps for a ton of stuff) it was delicious, don’t tell Bhupi… wait, just remembered he reads the blog hahaha sorry Bhupi!!! Then I made my way over to the VIN office where I am now, Bhupi is in so much stress with the whole website fiasco that I decided I would spend the day writing the blog post and helping out at the office. He thinks I’m some graphic design mastermind since the ad I made and now has made me the designated person to make things look beautiful; I’m working on the annual report next… this will be interesting. So yes, that was what my last few days consisted of! I’m sorry for the lack of pictures, because my ipod is not water proof I didn’t take it anywhere with me and as a result all the pictures of me and the elephant as well as the ones of the baby rhino are on the other people’s camera’s. They’ve promised to send me the pictures by email as soon as possible so expect a blog post solely filled with pictures soon!

Charlotte x